Elegy

Andrew’s Subtle Post has already shared a mutual pain that the two of us felt today over the fall of Gourmet. I’d like to preface this post by saying: yes, I am aware that it is just a magazine (of a major conglomerate, no less). This is not a cry over the impending death of printed word--which I do. Every night.

But there is nothing trivial about food. Aside from the survival dependency factor, we look to food to teach us about our culture, mannerisms, and distinctions. Gourmet offered commentary on food politics, culture, travel, literature—all of which stretch beyond recipe suggestions. Ever been touched by a writing about peas? Take a look at the plethora of remaining food magazines. If you know how to peel a carrot, you’re likely to be bored with them.

Why intellectualize food, though? I ask myself this a lot, particularly in a foodie-concentrated society where an obsession with truffle oils (stupidly) boosts status. I’ve settled on a conclusion that I’m satisfied with: food is an art, a realization of passion, and a study of human behavior, none of which are trivial. Not when a simple fig off a neighboring tree can inspire you to make a buttery tart. Or when you can sit back contently watching your loved ones devour what you’ve made. All you want to do is to immerse yourself in this world of creativity and vigor and to know what drives others; hence the need for such a publication.

I say all this without even mentioning the impact that Ruth Reichl, editor of Gourmet, has made on our eating habits. Consider that she emerged in the food world before there was such a phrase as “food world,” a time when Campbell’s soup was the height of culinary sophistication. The public was not eating naturally or, quite frankly, very well. Now we have choices! We can have mesclun greens—not just iceberg lettuce. We can have soup that doesn’t originate from a powder. Along with others (James Beard, Craig Claiborne, Alice Waters, etc.) Reichl has spearheaded a campaign for natural and fresh food, not “convenient” packages. Her regular commentary will be missed.